St. Georges & Grand Anse

Another early day planned – the market in St. Georges is at its best on Saturdays between 8 and noon. Larry and I are extremely causal and laid back travelers, but one thing we never miss is the local market. I was on the hunt for more spices and some local honey.

We started the day with breakfast on the patio again. Ever since our first trip to Spain, when we ate them on our patio in Sitges, soft-boiled eggs remind us of vacation. We had gotten mostly packed up the night before and were checked out and on the road by 8:30. Beeline for our next hotel, Grenada Grand Beach Resort, to drop off our luggage, then to the market in St. Georges. We found a great parking space on a narrow but not busy street a couple of blocks from Market Square.

St. Georges is charming, a port town busting with pedestrians and colorful buildings. The favorite pastime is strolling The Carenage, along the main harbor, which is actually the crater of an ancient volcano.

Similar to most overseas markets we go to, this one is dominated by women selling their wares. I’d say the majority of farmers in US farmers markets are men. Most of the booths were similar, selling a yam-like root, plantains, apple and other various types of bananas (called figs), mango, papaya, and fresh turmeric. The indoor portion of the market is primarily spices – nutmeg, mace, cinnamon (both ground and in bark form), star anise. Almost everyone sells nutmeg syrup and vanilla (extract and beans), and the women are very pushy! Like carnival barkers. It’s a bakers paradise, and I wanted to buy a suitcase full. I settled for cinnamon bark and a few other spice, in addition to local honey to feed my honey obsession.

We finished at the spice market and decided to explore the fish market next, which is fresh, local fish. Across the street is the Meat Market, men chopping cuts of meat with machetes and an unbearable smell (I’m guessing it’s also a slaughterhouse). Outside we saw a man holding what looked like a large dead, gutted rat. We asked if it was manicou – it was. A cross between an opossum and a large rat, and about as gross as you can imagine. But it’s a local specialty.

We stopped in at Deyna’s just before 11, too early for lunch but they were getting set up and told us to come back in 10 minutes. The woman behind the counter gave us a sample of her curry lambi to sample, but it wasn’t good enough to lure us back. It’s a favorite local spot, but it didn’t impress us. Instead, we opted for Courtyard Kitchen, a small shack and three tables located in a nondescript courtyard. We had seen the crude, hand painted sign from the street and were intrigued. It looked promising.

The woman in the shack asked us what we were looking for. Food, we told her. She described the dishes of the day – chicken roti (me), fresh fish or stewed pork (Larry). Mine came a la carte, a flavorful roti bread with whole, bone-in, skin-on chicken thigh, potatoes and curry–delicious. Larry’s pork stew was equally delicious, and it came with callalou (ick), plantains, yam, and rice. We loved it, and the setting was clean but quirky. Probably one of our favorite meals so far.

We decided to go to Annandle Falls next, a short drive from the town and the location of a supposedly lovely swimming hole. It was hot. Swimming hole sounded great. Except we couldn’t find it. We drove up the road, then back, asked for directions, and still didn’t find it. I swear I saw a sign for the yesterday, but we didn’t see it this time and weren’t in the mood to keep searching. There was a beach waiting for us.

We had decided to move closer to town for our last night in Grenada. The resort is less secluded and not as nice as Maca Bana, but still – the location can’t be beat. It’s located right on Grand Anse Beach, the type of beach that dreams are made of: soft white sand, blue water, just enough shade from surrounding trees. We had chaise lounges provided by the resort, and were enjoying our secluded, quiet spot until a bunch of rowdy local teenage boys decided to park themselves right behind us and then horse play in the water near us. We eventually moved to the pool – not a sacrifice. There are two pools here, and the more elaborate of the two has a bridge, waterfall, and swim-up bar. And wireless access. We spent the rest of the afternoon drinking cocktails, reading and napping.

Dinner was room service because neither of us particularly felt like going out – a day in the sun sipping tropical drinks will do that. We ordered grilled fish sandwich (cheaper than a hamburger) and fries; fresh fish is always good.